Bolar Mountain

Source Walk: 3-23-97, cool, somewhat windy, cold on ridge

Bolar Mountain, a low ridge in the western folded Appalachians of Virginia, lies southwest of and along the regional strike from the Blowing Springs Area. Interest in the area stems in part from likelihood of the presence of similar rocks and soils to those of Blowing Springs and as an extension of this biologically-rich area. As at Blowing Springs there is inferred to be a sequence of shales, siltstones, sandstones, limestones and cherts of Lower Devonian and/or Upper Silurian ages. Although much of Bolar Mountain is in private hands, the southern end is part of the T.M. Gathright State Wildlife Management Area, which includes Lake Moomaw, an empoundment of the Jackson River.

An approach to the area is through scenic Richardson Gorge of the Jackson River via State Route 603. Our inventory traverse of the Mountain extended along a gated road that crosses it and which originates on Route 603 about two thirds of a mile (1.1 km) south o the McClintic Point Campground on an arm of Lake Moomaw. Elevation at the starting point is 1621 feet (494 meters) asl. The traverse may conveniently be divided into four sections. The first of these, a little over a half mile (0.8 km) in length, extends northwest in a gentle ascent. The second section is essentially at a right angle to the first and follows the southeast side of a deep ravine directly up the mountain. The third section is again at an almost right angle to the second and follows the side of the same ravine to the ridge crest. The fourth section extends southwest along the ridgetop following the "Sweet Acorn Trail," but only for a short distance.

The trees, bare-branched at this season, even at the lowest elevations, are mostly young, but with scattered mature ones 2 feet (0.6 meters) dbh or greater. On the gentle slope toward the reservoir the forest is somewhat mesic with Black Cherry, Sugar and/ or Black Maple. However along the first section of the traverse it is more xeric in character as indicated by abundant Black and White Oaks and minor Northern Red Oak, Pignut Hickory and Pitch Pine, although Tuliptree, Black Birch and a few Hemlock occur as well. Some shallow ravines also contain Sycamore. Flowering Dogwood is everywhere present as understory, while the shrub layer contains Mountain Laurel, Upland Low Blueberry (Vaccinium pallidum) and St. Andrew's Cross (Hypericum hypericoides) in dry areas,and Spice Bush (Lindera benzoin) where more moisture is available. Occasional large Grape vines (probably Vitis 'stivalis) festoon trees.

Herbs observed at this season were mostly evergreen or last year's remnants such as Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), Plantain-leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia), Golden Aster (Chrysopsis moriana), Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera pubescens), Golden Ragwort (Senecio aureus), Poverty Oat Grass (Danthonia spicata), an unidentified Stonecrop (Sedum sp.), Alum Root (Heuchera sp.), the sedge Carex pensylvanica, Spotted Wintergreen (Climaphila maculata), and Ground Pine (Lycopodium flabelliforme). Most of these are consistent with a rather severe xeric and acid environment. Intermediate Shield Fern (Dryopteris intermedia) also occurs and appears to increase along the trail as does Black Birch. The road bank along this traverse was also the locus of a diverse and luxuriant cover of mosses that included such acid lovers as Dicranum scoparicum, Wheat Moss (Diphysicum foliosum), Leucobryum cushions, Apple Moss (Bartramia pomiformis), Delicate Fern Moss (Thuidium delicatulum), possible Hedwigia ciliata, Aulacomnium heterostichum and Cirriphyllum boscii.

Although conditions along this part of the traverse are prevailing acid, it is possible that some rock strata contain calcareous concretions based on our finding some of the latter in the area. However soils generally appear sandy and intermediate between mull and mor types.

Along the second section of the traverse, which has a generally northeast aspect, there is a dramatic increase in mesic species of trees, shrubs and herbs, particularly ferns on the road bank. Luxuriant growths of Christmas and Intermediate Shield Ferns, Marginal Shield Fern (Dryopteris marginalis) as well as a little Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum) and Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana) are intergrown with Wild Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens). Here also Roundlobe Hepatica (Hepatica americana) was already in bloom. It is likely that this lush fern growth heralds an increase in soil lime as well as a response to the added moisture that results from the northeast aspect. Tuliptree appears to be by far the most abundant canopy species, but Black Birch is also common. Other species include Red Maple (then in bloom), White Ash, Basswood, including at least some White (Tilia heterophylla) as indicated by old leaves, Bitternut, Shagbark, Mockernut and Pignut Hickories, including some Carya ovalis ,as determined from last season's nuts, Black Walnut, Slippery Elm, Cucumbertree (Magnolia acuminata), Black Gum, Northern Red, Black and White Oaks, Sassafras and a few Beech, some as large as 3 ft (0.9 meters) dbh. Hophornbeam accompanies Flowering Dogwood in the understory and Common Greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia) represents vines.

Our anticipation of a limy substrate was confirmed midway along the traverse by a limestones outcrop which bore Walking Fern (Camptosorus rhizophyllus) as well as mosses of the genera Brachythecium and Anomadon. Chert also appeared to be present in places and was sometimes difficult to distinguish from sandstone and quartzite without breaking the rock. Other plants noted on this mesic slope were Black Raspberry (Rubus occidentalis), Puttyroot (Aplectrum hyemale), Black Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis), Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) and a Corydalis (possibly C. flavula), not yet in bloom. A Barred Owl was also heard to call here and a small band if White-breasted Nuthatch (Sita carolinensis) and a Downy Woodpecker (Picoides pubescens) seen.

The third section of the traverse again had a mostly southeast aspect and, combined with an expected increase in the amount of resistant rock toward the ridgetop, resulted in a more xeric, acid and oak-rich forest. A steep slope of sandstone talus not far below the crest had large and possibly old growth Chestnut Oak,but Black Oak was also conspicuous, and there was some Mountain Laurel here as well. However the greatest number of trees on this slope appear to be 40 years old or younger with only a few scattered individuals in the century range.

The fourth section of the traverse extended southwest along the Sweet Acorn Trail. The canopy here seems to be dominated by large, mostly Black, oaks with some White Oak, Mockernut and Pignut Hickories. There are also Red Maple, Black Gum, Black Locust and in patches of superior soil groves of Black Walnut. Flowering Dogwood dominates the understory. In one place, curiously, at the edge of a "wildlife opening" created by the State, Teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens ) grew in a community of grasses and not particularly indicative of acid conditions.

Although cursory, our survey of Bolar Mountain confirmed the presence of a rock complex similar to that at Blowing Springs. The widespread occurrence of carbonate rocks on the mountain is also indicated by depressions, possibly attributable to limestone sinkholes, on the topographic map of the area. These relations indicate not only that rich mesic forest types may occur on other parts of the mountain but that the influence of these rocks may extend to the larger watershed. This question will be explored in our analysis of the adjacent Bolar Draft.

Bolar Draft/Mill Creek

Source Walks: 3-29-97

Bolar Draft is a narrow linear mountain valley that extends from Back Creek southwest to Lake Moomaw. It is in fact a linear projection of the Back Creek Valley and may be a former course of Back Creek, reflecting stream capture. Its northeast end is now drained by Cummings Run into Back Creek, but most of its length is occupied by Mill Creek, which drains southwest into Lake Moomaw.

Bolar Draft is bordered on the southeast by Bolar Mountain, the site of diverse Lower Devonian and/or Upper Silurian rocks rich in carbonates. Contrasting with this is the northwest valley side which is occupied largely by Devonian Millboro Shale and Chemung Formation, consisting of shale, siltstone and nutrient -poor acid soils. Tributory streams originating on Bolar Mountain are short with small watersheds but those draining the siliceous rocks to the northwest are larger by a factor of three. Consequently the waters of Mill Creek are increasingly dominated by acid run-off and subsurface flow in the downstream direction. This situation presents an opportunity to study the differential effect of rock types on the floodplain vegetation.

Our exploration of Bolar Draft and Mill Creek began at the former's southwest end at Clay Lick Hollow with a short shower and a little thunder but with later clear, cool and pleasant air. Our first traverse extended from the road across the floodplain toward Mill Creek, noting that the forest was dominated by an immature, largely White Oak canopy with most trees less than 10 inches (25 cm) dbh. Other trees consist of Black Oak, some large, White and Virginia Pines. Shagbark Hickory and scattered Black Walnut. A little Hophornbeam accompanies Flowering Dogwood and Muscletree in the understory. Closer to the branch stream from Claylick Hollow there are Hemlock (Adelgid-free), Red Maple, Beech, White Ash, Tuliptree, Sycamore, Pignut Hickory and a little Sugar Maple. The forest is generally very open on the floodplain with few shrubs except along Mill Creek. However there is a little Deerberry (Vaccinium stamineum) and Upland Low Blueberry (probably Vaccinium pallidum).

The herb layer on the floodplain as a whole is well-developed if not --at least in this season-- diverse. It seemed dominated by Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica) and Trout Lily (Erythronium umbilicatum), both of which were already in full bloom, Roundlobe Hepatica (Hepatica americana), with both blue and white flowers, and Spotted Wintergreen (Chimaphila maculata). Also common were Creeping Five-leaf (Potentilla simplex/canadensis) and Short-leaved Bluegrass (Poa cuspidata), the earliest grass to bloom here. It is interesting to compare this area with the Allegheny Highlands where this degree of advancement in vegetation must wait a month or more and Virginia Spring Beauty is replaced by Carolina Spring Beauty (Claytonia caroliniana) in a Yellow Birch-Red Maple-Red Spruce forest. However on this floodplain other species were also in evidence, including last year's remains of Bottlebrush Grass (Hystrix patula) as well as leaf rosettes of Avens (Geum sp.) and a little Saw Brier (Smilax glauca). Lichens and bryophytes were abundant, particularly on large rocks and tree bases. Identified were Dicranum scoporium in frequent association with Hedwigia ciliata and fruticose Cladina lichen. The base of a Black Walnut was covered by Tree Moss (Climacium americanum), an Anomodon, an Entodon and a Porella liverwort. A small White Oak bore, at eye level, a large patch of the moss Forsstroemia with its conspicuously up-turned tufts.

As previously stated, where the branch stream discharges across the floodplain the forest is more mesic than the general floodplain. In addition to the mesic canopy the north-facing bank bore a rich growth of herbs even at this season. Present were Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), the sedge Carex plantaginea, Golden Ragwort (Senecio aureus), another Senecio, Bedstraw (Galium sp.), Apple Moss (Bartramia pomiformis), Delicate Fern Moss (Thuidium delicatulum) and a moss with conspicuous gemm', Platygyrium repens. The rock bed load of the branch stream at this point appeared to consist largely of siltstone flags with a likely origin in Clay Lick Hollow. North of the branch, in a seepy flat, there was an virtual monoculture of sedge clumps, seemingly of the Laxiflora groupe.

Along Mill Creek proper the mesic character of the flora is further accentuated. All mesic tree species previously listed are present and here are joined by Hawthorn (Cratægus sp.) and in the shrub layer by Spice Bush, Black Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis), Shrubby St. Johnswort (Hypericum prolificum), Bladdernut (Staphlea trifolia), Witch Hazel, Black Haw Viburnum,Black Raspberry (Rubus occidentalis) and the alien Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata). Vines noted were Virginia Creeper and Bittersweet (Celastus sp.). In a patch of more than usually acid soil on the streambank Partridge Berry (Mitchella repens) formed intergrowths with Fern Moss. Other herbs in the vicinity of the stream were last season's remains of Wingstem (Verbesina alternifolia), Trout Lily, Round-leaf Hepatica, Northern Swamp Buttercup (Ranunculus septentrionalis), Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis), Golden Ragwort, Smooth Sweet Cicely (Osmorhiza longistylis), Carex plantaginea , Lady Fern (Athyrium filix -femina), a Panic Grass, the alien Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfaras) and Wild Garlic (Allium vineale).

The stream at this point has a moderate gradient with banks and bars composed of sandy alluvium with abundant sprouting Twisted Sedge (Carex torta ) , Eight inch (20 cm) fish, possibly trout, were seen, and one of our party described 20 inch (50 cm) suckers lying still in the shallows. Little other stream life than Water Striders was observed in the absence of a more intensive search. However Wolf Spiders were frequent among dead leaves on the floodplain.

Our general impression of the floodplain here was one of rather rich soil, albeit rocky and acid in character. Availability of nutrients is indicated by the great abundance of such bulb-forming plants as Spring Beauty and Trout Lily which provide good forage for animals and birds such as Wild Turkey. It is likely however, that the predominance of White Oak reflects some soil degradation as a result of timber cutting and/or destructive agricultural practices. Hopefully the forest will diversify --if protection continues under present management!

After our noon meal, during which we followed the motions of Turkey Vultures riding air currents above Bolar Mountain, we made our way up Clay Lick Hollow for a short distance. Here the dominance of White Oak continued, but trees were even smaller than on the Mill Creek floodplain. Included also among them were Black Oak, White Pine, Shagbark Hickory, Flowering Dogwood and Service Berry (Amelanchier arborea), with Red Maple, Beech, White Ash and Muscletree close to the stream. Shrubs were almost restricted to Witch Hazel and a little Mountain Laurel. A sparse ground cover consisted of Teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens) Trout Lily and a little Puttyroot (Aplectrum hyemale). At a stream side shale outcrop Cliff Stonecrop (Sedum glacophyllum) grew on the rock face. A soil profile at the same location revealed what appeared to be a poorly-developed mor, yellow in color,and homogenous with depth. Mosses noted were Thuidium delicatulum and Leucobryum cushions. Neither the latter nor Teaberry had been observed on the Mill Creek floodplain.

Poverty Oat Grass (Danthonia spicata ) was abundant, particularly where it was invading a clearing created by bulldozing and fertilization some time ago, but which had (happily!) been neglected and was once more turning acidic. We passed three of these clearings, which were also being invaded by Black Locust. In their vicinity we observed some Northern Red Oak, several Bluebirds, and in the forest at least six nests, several of which were a foot (0.3 meters) or more in diameter stick nests, while the rest were leaf nests of squirrels. Careful scrutiny was required to distinguish them from Witches Broom which was also present. Although our rapid passage precluded more faunal observations other than birds, we did encounter a large 0.75 inch (2 cm) active black Scarab Beetle.

The markedly less fertile soils of this hollow as compared to the Mill Creek floodplain,were indicated not only by the presence of Teaberry and Leucobryum moss, but also by the absence of Spring Beauty and other mesic herbs which formed so large a component of the floodplain flora.

Our next traverse was made along Mill Creek about three miles (5 km) upstream from Clay Lick Hollow, at Buckhorn Draft. The floodplain here appears to be the site of a former clearing now being reclaimed by forest. Soils appear to be less acid and richer than those of the Mill Creek floodplain at Claylick Hollow. Trees are small but Black Walnut is common and accompanied by other mesic species such as Butternut, Black Cherry, White Ash, Shagbark Hickory and near the stream, Sycamore. However White Oak is also common. Hawthorn is of frequent occurrence, especially in openings, and Spice Bush, Shrubby St. Johnswort, Black Raspberry, a Thorned Blackberry as well as Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) along the stream, form a shrub layer. Golden Ragwort, already in bloom, is especially abundant but mosses and lichens seem to be confined to salients of siliceous rocks which contain Dicranum and Cladina. Also associated with these rocks is some Marginal Shield Fern (Dryopteris marginalis).

At this point Mill Creek undercuts the steeply -rising slope of Bolar Mountain , which is covered by a rich canopy consisting of Beech, Black Birch, Tuliptree, Red Maple and other mesic species, while fragments of limestone occur in the creekbed. Here the presence of alien watercress (Nasturtium officinale) indicates more alkaline water than downstream. The occurrence of the acid-mesic forest on the slope is probably a result of vertical leaching, while the stream is fed largely by underground water flowing through limestone -- a conclusion which of course involves some speculation.

Further indicating hospitable waters were crayfish we uncovered beneath rocks, as well as abundant small fish in the stream. In most openings on the floodplain a heavy cover of last season's dried grasses and forbs contained identifiable Deer Tongue Grass (Panicum clandestinum), Goldenrods (Solidago sp.) and other Asterace'. These were accompanied by thickets of Thorned Blackberry and alien Multiflora Rose (Rosa multiflora), which in other areas Spice Bush and Shrubby St. Johnswort were the dominant shrubs. Where a side seep created a small pond adjacent to the stream below the bank, grew Common Water Plantain (Alisma subcordata) as well as green algæ. Numerous small fish (Minnows?) also inhabited this little bit of water isolated from the stream. It should be mentioned that, as distinguished from Mill Creek at Clay Lick Hollow, the rocks of the streambed here appeared to have a conspicuous slimy coat , perhaps due to diatoms, algæ or other organisms favored by less acid conditions and nutrient availability. Manna Grass (Glyceria sp.) sprouted vigorously at the stream's edge, and not far downstream, just above the junction of the branch stream from Buckhorn Draft, small fish were seen leaping for insects from a quiet pool. As on other walks at this season few birds attracted our attention, however here Pileated Woodpeckers were an exception.

Some mosses and liverworts from the Mill Creek floodplain at Clay Lick Hollow were examined under the microscope by R. Hunsucker. The following were identified.

Mosses

Anomodon attenuatus
A. minor
A. rostratus
Bryum c'spiticium
Climacium americanum
Dicranella rufescens
Ditrichum pallidum
Eurhychium riparioides
Hygrohypnum eugyrium
Thelia asprella
Thuidium delicatulum
T. minutulum
Tortella humilis
Ulota crispa
Weissia controversa

Liverworts

Calypogeia muelleriana
Frullania inflata
F. eboracensis

Our survey of Bolar Draft in relation to the contrasting geology of Bolar and Allegheny Mountains hints at, if it does not fully disclose, a close dependency of the Draft flora -- and of necessity fauna -- on the character of water draining from the two areas. Run-off and groundwater from Bolar Mountain feeding into Mill Creek appear to contain a greater quantity of such bases as calcium and magnesium and are consequently more alkaline and nutrient-rich than those draining from Allegheny Mountain. However, because the volume of flow from Allegheny Mountain is so much greater, it in effect progressively swamps that from Bolar Mountain downstream. The result is that the relatively rich flora and fauna present along Mill Creek at Buckhorn Draft is present in diminished, if still quite rich, form along this stream at Clay Lick Hollow.

Because Bolar Mountain and Draft as well as the adjacent Blowing Springs Area are parts of a substantial tract of contiguous public and private wildland, and because they contain rich soils, they can play an important role in the ecological recovery of the region and should receive full protection from timber cutting and ground disturbing activities.

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