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General
Warm Springs Mountain is typical of those ridges capped by Silurian sandstone or quartzite. The range extends southwest 28 miles (45 km) from Burnsville to Covington, Virginia and averages about three miles (5 km) in width. It attains elevations of 4000 ft (1200 meters) in several places, with a maximum of 4225 ft (1288 meters) on Bald Knob east of Carloover. Structurally it is part of an anticline which also extends northeast to form Jack Mountain. A major feature of this anticline is a breach in which the capping of resistant sandstone has been eroded away from the northwest limb for part of its length. This breach, which extends from a little north of the village of Warm Springs to about 6 miles (10 km) north of Covington, exposes a variety of Ordovician rocks that give rise to soils and plant communities quite different from those on sandstone (Mueller and Mueller, 1997). Examples are the Martinsburg Formation which consists largely of calcareous shales and the Moccasin and Beekmantown which are predominantly limestone and dolomite. The latter form the floor of the Warm Springs Valley just west of the Range (Rader and Evans, 1993 ; Bick, 1962). In an earlier paper it was proposed that Warm Springs Mountain be designated a corridor in a Wilderness - corridor system for the George Washington National Forest (Mueller, 1991), However, recently The Nature Conservancy (2002, White, 2002) acquired 9000 acres (3600 ha) on the Mountain, so that classification as wilderness now seems more appropriate.
While the limestones and dolomites of the Warm Springs Valley support the best agricultural lands and richest mesic forest types, the slopes of Warm Springs Mountain also show evidence of differing rock types in land use and ownership patterns. For example the presence of underlying Ordovician rock, chiefly Martinsburg Formation, is shown by a greater degree of land clearing, gentle slopes and private ownership on the northwest side of the range as compared with the more rugged and heavily forested SE side, which is underlain primarily by Silurian rocks. On both the NE and SW ends of the Range, where the anticline is closed, xeric, ericaceous forests occupy rugged terrain. The conformity of land ownership to geologic structure is also shown by the location of national forest land, which generally is restricted to the least productive and steepest terrain.
Warm Spring Mountain at Muddy Run
Source Walk: 8-13-95, Weather very warm
Muddy Run, a branch of the Jackson River, lies at the bottom of the NW slope of Warm Springs Mtn. in the closed part of the anticline. Rocks are chiefly Silurian Clinton Formation and Clinch Sandstone (Bick, 1962). The slope forest here, except for the immediate vicinity of the stream, is dry and ericaceous and the stream-side forest is dominantly acid-soil vegetation.
A spot inventory was conducted in the vicinity of a 2520 ft. (768 meter) benchmark along Va. Route 614. The forest here is young, perhaps little more than 50 years in age with a canopy dominated by Scarlet, Black, Northern Red, White and Chestnut Oaks (Quercus coccinea, Q. velutina, Q. rubra, Q. alba and Q. prinus). Also present are Red Maple (Acer rubrum), Black Birch (Betula lenta), Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica), Sassafras (Sassafras albidum ), Pitch Pine (Pinus rigida), White Pine (Pinus srrobus) and scattered Cucumber Magnolia (Magnolia acuminata). Serviceberry (likely Amelanchier arborea), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Striped Maple ( Acer pensylvanicum) and American Chestnut ( Castanea dentata ) sprouts form an understory. Witch Hazel ( Hamamelis virginiana ) and Smooth Alder (Alnus serrulata) are concentrated along streams and in moist areas and there are also a few scattered Wild Raisin (Viburnum cassinoides) bushes. Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia), Minnie-bush ( Menziesia pilosa ), Black Huckleberry (Gaylussacia baccata ) and Upland Low Blueberry ( Vaccinium pallidum) form a heavy shrub layer on the upland with smaller amounts of Bear Oak ( Quercus ilicifolia ). There also is a little Wild Rose (Rosa carolina). Moist areas have vigorous vines of common Greenbrier ( Smilax rotundifolia ), a ground cover of Ground Berry (Rubus hispidus) , and in openings, Narrow-leaved Sundrops (Oenothera fruticosa), Wrinkled-leaf Goldenrod (Solidago rugosa) and other goldenrods.
Teaberry (Gaultheria procumbens ) and Trailing Arbutus (Epigaea repens ) are abundant in dry acid-soil areas, and where these are in the open, Wild Indigo ( Baptisia tinctoria) , Cow wheat (Melanpyrum lineare), Mountain Bellwort (Uvularia pudica) , Wood Tickseed ( Coreopsis major) and Whorled Loosestrife (Lysimachia quadrifolia ) are found. Of particular interest is the abundance of Wild Sarsaparilla ( Aralia nudicaulis ) which is usually dependent on cold air drainage at these elevations.
These flowering plants are accompanied by at least five species of ferns —Bracken ( Pteridium aqilinum ), Hay -scented ( Dennstaedtia punctilobula ), New York ( Thelypteris noveboracensis ), Christmas ( Polystichum acrostichoides ) and Cinnamon (Osmunda cinnamomea )— and two of lycopods, Lycopodium flabelliforme and L. obscurum.
About a quarter mile (0.4 km) upstream from the bench mark overflow forms a wetland along Muddy Run. Consisting mostly of a Smooth Alder Swamp, this wetland may have resulted from Beaver (Castor canadensis ) action. A Gray Catbird (Dumetella carolinensis ) called from the alder thickets but no direct evidence of Beavers was seen.
The northwest slope of Warm Springs Mountain is marked by a series of narrow ravines with intermittent or seasonal water flows. Beginning at the benchmark a traverse was made up the slope along a trail on the southwest side of a ravine here. After noting an increase in Chestnut Oak, Bear Oak and Pitch Pine upward, and at about a third of a mile (0.5 km) above the benchmark, the trail was abandoned for a climb up the spur to the southwest. A survey was then made of a deep ravine on the other side of this spur, here at an elevation of perhaps 2700 ft. (820 meters) asl.
Trees next to a small stream with flowing water in this ravine are Canada Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis ), possibly Adelgid-free, Chestnut Oak, Black Gum, White Oak, Black Birch and Red Maple, all large and seemingly qualifying as old growth. Striped Maple is present and Witch Hazel and Mountain Laurel form a shrub layer. A sparse ground cover consists of Starflower ( Trientalis borealis), Canada Mayflower (Maianthemum canadense), Indian Cucumber Root ( Medeola virginiana ), Mountain Aster (Aster acuminatus), Round-leaf Violet (Viola rotundifolia) and New York and Cinnamon Fern. There is also a variety of mosses, including Cushion (Leucobryum sp.) and Delicate Fern (Thuidium delicatulum.) and the liverwort Bazzania trilobata, a familiar of spruce forests. The presence of so many northern/cool-climate species probably signals significant cold air drainage and accumulation from the heights above during the early growing season. The northwest aspect and depth of this ravine also favor a cool microclimate here.
On the return route to the road and following the stream down-slope, Hemlock drops out and White Pine appears with Teaberry and spotted Wintergreen (Chimaphila maculata ) in dry, and Rubus hispidus in moist, areas. In one place Rock Fern (Polypodium virginianum) and a variety of mosses, including Dicranum sp. cover a large block of sandstone in a decorative display.
The next traverse was initiated on the bank of Muddy Run about a mile southwest of the benchmark, along Rt. 614, where the stream and road bend sharply to the west. The elevation at this point is about 2200 ft. (670 meters) asl. A spot inventory on the stream bank disclosed a rich mesic forest in which White Basswood (Tilia heterophylla), Tuliptree ( Liriodendron tulipifera), Black Birch, Pignut Hickory ( Carya glabra or C. ovalis) and Flowering Dogwood are prominent. A very incomplete list of herbs included Hog Peanut ( Amphicarpa bracteata ), Horse Balm ( Collinsonia canadensis), Meadow Rue ( Thalictrum sp), Tall Coneflower (Rudbeckia lacinata) , abundant Wild Sarsaparilla and beautifully blooming Blue Monkshood (Aconitum uncinatum).
From Muddy Run an old woods road ascends Warm Springs Mountain along the SW side of a deep ravine. The bed of this road is overgrown with mosses, lichens and various herbs and in general mesic conditions persist upward along it. White Oak, White Ash (Fraxinus americana), Shagbark Hickory ( Carya ovata), Tuliptree, Black and Northern Red Oak, Black Birch, Red Maple and a little Sugar Maple ( Acer saccharum) form a canopy with outstandingly large and well-formed Pignut Hickories. Striped Maple, Witch Hazel, Great Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum) and Mtn. Laurel are concentrated on the lower slope and along the road, and here and there are Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) and Poison Ivy (Rhus radicans) vines. Represented among the herb layer are Indian Tobacco ( Lobelia inflata), Hairy Disporum (Disporum lanuginosum) , White Grass (Leersia virginica ), Hog Peanut, Indian Cucumber Root, Blue Cohosh (Caulophyllum thlictroides), Four-leaved Yam( Dioscorea quaternata ) and Wild Sarsaparilla. Water Pennywort (Hydrocotyle americana) and Bugleweed ( Lycopus sp) occupy seeps and moist areas while in dryer, acid-soil areas Moccasin Flower (Cypripedium acaule ), Rattlesnake Plantain ( Goodyera pubescens ) and Shining Clubmoss (Lycopodium lucidulum) spring from banks under overhanging Laurel. A few moist shady places harbor small patches of Partridge Berry ( Mitchella repens )and, characteristic of this forest type, Christmas, Hay-scented and Marginal Shield( Dryopteris marginalis ) Ferns.
After perhaps 1/3 mile (0.5 km) the woods road was left behind in a steep climb up the spur to the southwest. Not far above the woods road the slope is interrupted by a concavity with a moist, seepy floor covered by mesic and hydric herbs. These included Jewelweed ( Impatiens sp) Sensitive Fern ( Onoclea sensibilis), Broad Beech Fern (Phegopteris hexagonoptera) and New York Fern as well as grasses and sedges.
The entire area of the slope and spur top, here at perhaps 2600 ft. (790 meters) asl is occupied by a very open forest of Black, Northern, Red, Chestnut and White Oaks, Tuliptree, Pignut Hickory, Black Birch and White Pine. Small amounts of Flowering Dogwood forms an understory while Wild Sarsaparilla, Rattlesnake Plantain and Christmas Fern are among the few herbs present.
A significant observation during departure from the area in the evening was a strong cool breeze blowing down the ravine. It may be that this air motion and cooling supports the Wild Sarsaparilla and perhaps other northern species on these slopes.
The clearly more mesic character of the forest on these slopes as compared with that traversed above the bench mark may be significant in terms of underlying rock types. Certainly the former lie a mile (1.6 km) closer to and may even border on the region of Ordovician rocks discussed earlier. In any case this forest seems to form a transitional type between the dry ericaceous forests associated with silica-rich rocks of the region and the rich mesic type to be discussed in the next section.
Route 39 Crossing of Warm Springs Mountain
Source Walk: 9-4-95 and other observations
On ascent of Warm Springs Mountain from the southeast via Route 39 the impression is one of a dry, dominantly oak forest similar to the prevailing regional type. Mesic species, and particularly those such as grape vines, are not much in evidence. However at the mountain crest, here at 2950 ft. (900 meters) in a small wind gap, this changes as a variety of mesic species suddenly come into view. Beyond the crest the highway descends in switch backs to the Warm Springs Valley through a rich, although degraded, mixed mesophyte forest of a type usually associated with carbonate rocks.
Canopy species noted in the gap include White Ash, Black Walnut (Juglans nigra), Red and Sugar Maple, Black Cherry (Prunus serotina), Black Locust ( Robinia pseudoacacia) and a basswood approximating Tilia heterophylla. Tuliptree occurs at an unusual elevation of 2900 ft. (880 meters) on the SE side of the gap but is little in evidence along the road except near the bottom of the NW slope. Summer Grape (Vitis æstivalis) is common and lush in the gap and on the NW slope as is also a bittersweet (Celastrus sp) vine, tentatively identified as the alien C. orbiculatus.
Other canopy species observed along the descent to the Warm Springs Valley, in addition to those already mentioned, are Slippery Elm (Ulmus rubra), Northern Red and White Oaks, Black Birch, Shagbark, Pignut and Bitternut (Carya cordiformis) Hickories, Butternut (Juglans cinerea ), Black Maple (Acer nigrum ), Cucumber Magnolia and Red Mulberry (Morus rubra ). Small trees and shrubs include Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana) , Black Elderberry ( Sambucus canadensis ), Witch Hazel, Maple-leaf Viburnum ( Viburnum acerifolium) and Flowering Raspberry ( Rubus odoratus) . Winter Grape (Vitis vulpina) vines join those of Summer Grape. The greatest contrast, in fact, between the SE and NW sides of the Mountain is in the abundant grape vines which climb high up trees and sprawl over undergrowth on the latter but are sparse on the former. In addition there is a virtual or total absence of ericaceous vegetation in the roadside forest of the NW slope.
No attempt was made to inventory herbaceous species, which in any case were sparse due to the season and the degraded character of the forest. However the presence of such canopy species as Black Walnut, Black Maple, Red Mulberry, and to a lesser degree Slippery Elm, characterizes a forest far different from the acid-soil mesic forests of coves and riparian zones so typical of these mountains. The demanding canopy species present here seem to indicate considerably richer soils than those that nourish even the most mesic forests along Muddy Run. While attributing forest type to bedrock type is difficult, such a relationship seems plausible in this case because the NW aspect is a relatively constant factor and mapped geologic formation boundaries and rock types occur in the right places.
Dolly Ann Hollow
Source Walk: 5-2-93
Northeast of Covington Warm Springs Mountain ends in a rugged highland around 4072 ft. (1241 meter) prominence of Big Knob. To the southeast of this knob the terrain drops off in Dolly Ann Hollow, one of several stream valleys that radiate from the upland. In terms of the geologic structure the Warm Springs anticline pitches beneath younger Devonian sediments here and is closed with respect to the Silurian sandstones, which, as a result, dominate the area.
Dolly Ann Hollow is representative of acid-mesic riparian zones in siliceous country rocks. Fortunately the riparian zone has escaped some of the worst logging onslaughts and a beautiful stand of old growth forest has been preserved. This forest is dominated by impressively large Hemlock, White Pine, White and Chestnut Oaks and Pignut Hickory as well as somewhat smaller Black Gum, Northern Red Oak, Tuliptree, Red Maple, Basswood and Shagbark Hickory. However little White Ash and no Sugar Maple were seen. Scattered Serviceberry and thickets of Witch Hazel and Great Rhododendron form an understory and shrub layer, especially near the stream. Abundant large woody debris in the stream and elsewhere define old growth conditions and lend a wild character to the hollow.
No Striped Maple was seen, but this was probably fortuitous, since, although the elevation of near 2000 feet (610 m) asl, is low for the species, it might be expected as a result of the accumulation of cool subsiding air.
No systematic inventory of herbaceous species was undertaken. However an unexpectedly sparse number of herbs was noted in the riparian zone perhaps as a consequence of the deep shade of Hemlock and Rhododendron or lack of suitable nutrients. Partridge Berry is, as usual, present under Hemlock and a number of lily-family members — Medeola, Uvularia, Smilacina —as well as Dioscorea and Anemone were observed putting forth new growth. One Large-flowered Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) was observed in bloom near the stream. Wild Sarsaparilla with flowers developing was fairly abundant a half mile (0.8 km) upstream from the road.
Surprisingly also for the season, few warblers or other birds were seen or heard in the treetops, although Pileated (Dryocopus pileatus ) Woodpeckers and Blue Jays ( Cyanocitta cristata ) were in evidence. No visible life was noted in the stream but some sign of Beavers was seen. Acid levels may be high in these waters because of siliceous rocks in the watershed.
A rapid reconnaissance of the upland in the vicinity of Big Knob was also done. The forest on this upland is very dry and ericaceous with stunted Black, Scarlet and Chestnut Oaks, Red Maple and Black Gum at low to moderate elevations and Northern Red Oak and abundant Striped Maple near the summit. Serviceberry in full bloom was conspicuous as were Mountain Laurel and Black Huckleberry (Gaylussacia baccata ) in the shrub layer. Although much of the stunted and depauperate character of the upland forest probably relates to past land abuse and recent clearcutting it is also ultimately a result of nutrient-poor soils inherent in the siliceous bedrock.
Smith Creek Watershed
Source Walk: 4-16-95
The Smith Creek watershed includes part of the southeast slope of Warm Springs Mountain just northeast of Dolly Ann Hollow. The country rock is dominantly Silurian sandstones and other silica-rich rocks.
The first spot inventory of forest was done on the main stem of Smith Creek just below where Piney Branch enters McGraw Gap at about 1600 ft. (490 meters) asl. Trees in the riparian zone of the steep-sided gap are Adelgid-infested Hemlock, Tuliptree, Black Locust, Black Birch, Black, Scarlet, Northern Red, Chestnut and White Oaks, Basswood (Possibly Tilia heterophylla), Cucumber Magnolia, Red Maple, White Ash, Black Gum, White Pine and Flowering Dogwood. Only one small Striped Maple was seen. Great Rhododendron, Mtn. Laurel, Witch Hazel, Wild Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens ) and Black Raspberry ( Rubus occidentalis) form the general shrub layer with Smooth Alder along the stream. What appeared to be Hardhack (Spirea tomentosa) was found growing in a part of the stream bed which was then dry.
The most diverse herb assemblage occurs on the southwest bank where the aspect is almost north and where there appears to be colluvial enrichment of the soil. It is also possible that more nutrient-rich rocks than average for the area occur here. Happily also on this day many species were in full bloom. Among these were Wild Geranium, Large-flowered Trillium, Golden Ragwort, Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense), Cut-leaf Toothwort (Dentaria lacinata), Great Chickweed(Stellaria pubera), a White Violet, Bloodroot ( Sanguinaria canadensis ), Rue Anemone ( Anemonella thalictroides ), and the sedges Carex plantaginea and C. torta, the last in the stream bed. Others not in bloom at the time were White Wood Aster, a jewelweed, Trout Lily (probably Erythronium umbilicatum ), Jack-in-the-Pulpit ( Arisaema triphyllum), Black Cohosh ( Cimicifuga racemosa ) and Bellwort (Uvularia sp). These were accompanied by Christmas, Marginal Shield and Rock (Polypodium virginianum ) Ferns and in the stream bed by the alien Mouse-ear Chickweed (Cerastium vicosum) looking like it should be native!
Yellow Tiger Swallowtail Butterflies, a small elegant Sphinx Moth and a type of gnat were among the insects seen.
As might be expected from the low elevation and the open character of the valley, no plants of truly northern affinity were found. In this way the area contrasts slightly with Dolly Ann Hollow where at least one such species, Wild Sarsaparilla, occurs.
The junction of Route 606 and FR 125 on the lower slope of Warm Springs Mtn. is at about 2000 ft. (610 meters) elevation. Canopy species here in approximate order of abundance are Scarlet, Black, Chestnut and White Oaks, Sassafras, Black Gum, Red Maple, Pitch Pine and scattered Hemlock. The forest is quite open with sparse understory and shrub layers, the former of Flowering Dogwood, Serviceberry and Striped Maple, the latter of Mountain Laurel, Deerberry (Vaccinium stamineum ), Upland Low Blueberry and Black Huckleberry. A few trees are draped by grape vines. The leaf mat is heavy, with few herbs, but scattered Teaberry, Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera pubescens) , Spotted Wintergreen and Halbert-leaved Violet (Viola hastata), the latter made conspicuous by bright yellow blooms. Cushion, other mosses and Cladonia lichen are concentrated in moist areas and at the bases of trees, which is also habitat for Poverty Oat Grass (Danthonia spicata).
Many trees here have well-healed fire scars, particularly on the up-slope side of the trunk. If burning is regarded as concentrated on the lee side, an up-slope wind at the time of burning is indicated.
Downslope from the road junction White Oak increases and is joined by Pignut, Tuliptree, Black Birch and Black Locust. Hairy Angelica (Angelica venenosa) becomes common and in places there are a few stunted Wild Geranium, Partridge Berry and Sweet-scented Bedstraw (Galium triflorum) . Unidentified sedges, rushes and a blue violet cluster at small seeps.
A rapid reconnaissance along FR 125 to the NE added Big-toothed Aspen (Populus grandidentata) , Witch Hazel and —along a small water course with Teaberry— Trailing Arbutus and Galax ( Galax aphylla) to the tally of plants. Another species prominent on the road bank was Plantain-leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) here associated with a soil profile that showed a bleached zone beneath a thin organic (mor) surface layer, an indication of podzolic conditions.
A little beyond this point a short traverse was made downslope noting Rattlesnake Weed (Hieracium venosum) on the way to a small wetland and the site of an artificial pond constructed by the Forest Service. Growing over the berm of this pond —which contained Eastern Newts ( Notophthalmus viridescens) — was a lush growth of Lycopodium flabelliforme. Farther downslope, in an active seep overgrown by grass and sedges, overturned rocks exposed what appeared to be Dusky (Desmognathus) and Two-lined (Eurycea) salamanders. Here also the first Red-eyed Vireo ( Vireo olivaceus) calls of the season were heard.
On the return loop to the road a single quite large Sugar Maple was encountered. This tree, as is usual in these mountains, where the species is not common, stood out by virtue of its fungus-blackened trunk, a result of sap leaking from multiple Yellow-bellied Sapsucker ( Sphyrapicus varius ) borings that ringed it.
Finally, advantage was taken of the return drive from the field to note the character of forest along the upper Smith Creek and Wilson Creek Valleys. As expected from the underlying rocks the upland forest here is dry and ericaceous while riparian zones are acid-mesic with Great Rhododendron prominent in moist areas. Tuliptree and Red Maple appear to be dominant in many regenerating clearcuts and other logging openings which mar the forest along the road. But contrasting hopefully with these is the towering bulk of Warm Springs Mountain rising to the hidden summit we consider in the next section.
Bald Knob
Source Walk: 8-28-95
Central Appalachian ridges seldom exceed 4000 ft (1220 meters) in elevation for any great distance and higher elevations tend to be isolated “knobs” that stand above the main ridge. Examples from the Shenandoah Range have been discussed. Because of exposure to wind and sunlight on these knobs, growing conditions and the general environment of biologic communities are likely to be more severe than might be expected from elevation alone. At 4225 ft (1288 meters) asl Bald Knob, the highest point of Warm Springs Mountain, is not unusually lofty. However the refractory nature of its Silurian sandstone bedrock and isolation from other high elevation ridges expose it to an unusual poverty of soil moisture and nutrients and to drying and freezing wind blasts not attained on some higher peaks. In recognition of Bald Knob’s unusual conditions and biological communities Virginia’s Division of Natural Heritage ( Smith, 1991) has proposed that it be designated a “Special Interest Area—Botanical.” Among featured rare species are the Variable Sedge (Carex polymorpha) and the Smooth Green Snake, with the latter also occurring on Shenandoah Mountain. According to Fleming et al (2001) the globally - rare Herodias Underwing Moth (Catocala herodias gerhardii) has been documented as present in the pine barrens here.
The Blad Knob Summit is (unfortunately) conveniently approached from State Route 703 via a road that gives access to an electronic site there. The elevation at the junction of the two roads at the knob’s base is 3898 ft (1188 meters) which give it a height of 327 ft (100 meters) above the ridge.
The general area of the road junction and the slope leading to the summit is dominated by pine heath with stunted Northern Red Oak forest at the margins. This vegetation is developed on coarse, light gray sandstone or quartzite which through the millennia has weathered into a jumble of large and small angular blocks. It is likely that much of this weathering dates to conditions during the ice age.
A spot inventory at the junction began with a curiosity, a single Tuliptree sapling, here far above the species’ normal range. Very likely the tree is a product of the fortuitous sprouting and survival from a seed lofted by the wind from mesic forests on the lower northwest slope. Other trees here are Northern Red Oak, Black Birch, Black Locust, Fire Cherry ( Prunus pensylvanica ), Striped Maple, Pitch Pine and Mountain Ash (Pyrus americana). The heath vegetation is dominated by Catawba Rhododendron ( Rhododendron catawbiense ), in contrast with the Valley below in which Great Rhododendron holds sway. Catawba Rhododendron, which is a rock lover, is here accompanied by Mountain Laurel, Minnie-bush, Black Chokeberry ( Aronia melanocarpa), Bear Oak, Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregrina ) and several species of blueberries, including Early Low (Vaccinium angustifolium) and Upland Low . Stunted and wind distorted Pitch Pines punctuate the low shrub, while Teaberry, Trailing Arbutus and Spotted Wintergreen form a ground cover.
Within the oak forest Witch Hazel seems to thrive particularly well, forming stout clumps under and among Northern Red Oak. In openings, as along the road, there are scattered stunted Sassafras, which extend to the summit, American Chestnut sprouts, Blackberry shrubs and various grasses including Little Bluestem (Andropogon scoparius).
Broadleaf herbs include various goldenrods among which is Solidago curtisii White Snakeroot, Whorled Loosestrife, Southern Bellflower ( Campanula divaricata ) and Bracken Fern. Farther along the summit road these are joined by Plume Lily ( Smilacina racemosa ), Bigleaf Aster ( Aster macrophyllus ), Panicled Hawkweed ( Hieracium paniculatum ) Gall-of-the-Earth (Prenanthes serpentaria) and Cow Wheat (Melampyrum lineare) . More unusual than any of these is Wild Lily-of-the-Valley (Convalaria montana), an Appalachian high elevation member of the lily family frequently associated with boreal species. Although some regard this plant as a feral version of the domesticated Lily-of-the-Valley, C. majalis, it has distinct characteristics and is almost certainly native (Strausbaugh and Core, 1977).
Perhaps half way to the summit Mountain Aster appears, and a little higher, Wild Sarsaparilla. Here also are the last few shrubby sprouts of Black Oak and also of White Oak, species that seldom reach 4000 ft. (1220 meters) asl at this latitude. Other species successively encountered on the approach to the summit were Bowman’s Root (Gillenia trifoliata), Smooth Gooseberry (Ribes rotundifolium), Black Cherry, Black Huckleberry, Hazelnut ( Corylus sp.) of an undetermined species, Red Maple, Wild Raisin, Hay-scented Fern, Maple-leaf Viburnum, Serviceberry, Spreading Dogbane ( Apocynum androsaemifolium), Virginia Creeper, Common Greenbrier, Wild Lettuce (Lactuca canadensis) and Upland Willow (Salix humilis).
At the summit much of the low heath vegetation that prevails on the southwest slope is replaced by a dwarf forest. A spot inventory shows this forest to be dominated by Northern Red Oak with abundant Mountain Ash (now covered with clusters of brilliant red fruit), a few Yellow Birch, Striped Maple and at least one grove of Beech ( Fagus grandifolia) . Interspersed with these trees are Bear Oak, Witch Hazel, Mountain Holly (Ilex montana) , Minnie-bush, Wild Raisin, Catawba Rhododendron, Mountain Laurel, Maleberry (Lyonia ligustrina ) and a little Azalea (perhaps Rhododendron roseum). Black Berries and large vigorous Hairy Angelica grow in openings.
In the forest beneath the stunted oaks ground cover consists largely of various mosses and lichens growing on quartzite blocks, and between these, Teaberry and Hay-scented Fern. In some places there are patches of inter-grown Canada Mayflower, Mountain Aster, Wild Lily-of-the-Valley and Wild Sarsaparilla or dark green clumps of crinkled Hair Grass ( Deschampsia flexuosa ) with dried seed stalks still present. Beyond the summit, on the gentle northeast slope, much of the ground cover consists of Rock Fern which grows thickly on the quartzite blocks. Other plants noted along the road here were Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana), Moccasin Flower, increased quantities of Black Huckleberry, blueberries, a single White Pine and a lone Virginia Pine (Pinus virginiana) seedling.
Many of the plants on Bald Knob such as the heaths, Bear Oak and Pitch Pine are associated with the dryest, most nutrient-poor soils and the harshest wind conditions. Others, such as Mountain Ash, Canada Mayflower, Mountain Aster, Wild Sarsaparilla, and Ilex montana respond to cold, but moister conditions. Thus the heaths, Bear Oak and Pitch Pine are concentrated on the southwest slope while the other group is associated with the Red Oak forest on the summit and on sheltered slopes.
The erosion-resistant sandstone and quartzite bedrock exposed on Bald Knob is probably very similar to rock which underlies much of the southeast side of Warm Springs Mountain as well as its northeast and southwest termini where the anticline closes. However the lower the elevation, the greater the covering soil layer as a result of colluvial soil-forming processes. Yet although growing conditions on bare rocks of the Bald Knob summit are greatly moderated at lower elevations they seldom attain optimum conditions except where the anticline is breached to expose more nutrient-rich rocks.
References
Bick, Kenneth F. (1962) Geology of the Williamsville Quadrangle, Virginia Report Of Investigations 2. Virginia Division Of Mineral Resources. Charlottesville, Virginia.
Fleming, Gary P., Philip P. Couling., Dean P. Walton,. Kathleen M. McCoy and Michelle R. Parrish (2001) The Natural Communities of Virginia: Classification of Ecological Community Groups, First Approximation. Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation, Div. of Natural Heritage, Richmond, Virginia.
Mueller, R. F. (1991) Central Appalachian Wilderness in Perspective, The George Washington National Forest. Wild Earth. 1 (3) 62 - 67..
Mueller, R. F. and Gus Mueller (1997) Geology in Reserve Design, an Example from the Folded Appalachians. Wild Earth 7 (2) 62 - 66.
Nature Conservancy (2002) Virginia: warm Springs Mountain. Nature Conservancy 52 (2) P 74.
Rader, E. K. and N. H. Evans, editors (1993) Geologic Map of Virginia, Expanded Explanation. Virginia Division of Mineral Resources, Charlottesville, Va.
Smith, Lawrence R. (1991) Ecological Diversity Protection on the George Washington National Forest. Technical Report 91 - 1, Virginia Dept. of Conservation and Recreation, Div, of Natural Heritage, Richmond, Va.
Strausbaugh, P. D. and Earl L. Core (1977) Flora of West Virginia, Second Edition. Seneca Books, Inc., Grantsville, West Virginia.
White, Daniel (2002) Warm Springs Mountain Protected. Virginia News (The Nature Conservancy) Spring 2002 pp 4-8.