Westminster Cathedral. Despite clearly-posted signs informing the public that Westminster is closed to tourists on Sunday, some Americans were trying to persuade the man at the gate to let them in. We were hungry by this point and Gretchen asked the man at the gate a different question, did he know where any good fish and chips places could be found nearby? This was a subject the man at the gate answered with thoughtful seriousness, as though the pursuit of fish and chips was not something appropriate for trifling, and he directed us to head further northward from the Thames, that there were a number of good places there.

The place we ended up, however, gave us a satisfyingly authentic experience with dreadful British food. My fish tasted like they'd spent their entire lives, along with the lives of several old vacuum cleaner bags, swimming in oil in which they'd been fried.

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